Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades

Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades in Lebanon, IN With Lebanon Window Treatments

Two lift paths, twice the hardware, stated plainly

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Quick Answer

Answers to the common questions on this service, written the way we'd explain it at your window. If the terminology is unfamiliar, the questions below define it as they go.

  • Service: Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades for Lebanon homeowners
  • Service area: Lebanon, IN and surrounding areas
    • A restring, a new cord lock, a tilt mechanism or a dead motor battery gets handled far faster than a new order, because nothing has to be built. New custom work runs on the factory's two to five week clock.
  • Insured and bonded
  • Serving Lebanon, IN since 2008
Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades Services

Expert Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades for Lebanon Homes

Two lift paths on one shade let you drop the top rail and take light off a high head while the bottom stays covered. Lebanon's 1,275 pre-1940 houses are where that pays, because those openings carry head heights well above 80 inches and 18 to 28 windows per house with almost nothing repeating. On a front room along North Meridian Street, platted before anyone thought about a deep setback, the lower half of the glass faces the sidewalk and the upper half faces sky. One product covers the half you want covered and opens the half you don't, without dimming the room to do it.

You're buying twice the hardware and it's worth saying so. There are two cord paths or two handle sets, a middle rail that carries its own lift, and a headrail deep enough to hold both mechanisms. Every one of those is a thing that can bind, and when the top down path fails you generally can't use the shade normally until it's serviced. The middle rail also draws a permanent horizontal line across the glass wherever it's parked, which some people never notice and some can't stop seeing. On a Ulen opening carrying leaded, multi light units, it competes with a pattern already in the glass. On a short opening the two rails together eat a real share of the view.

When to Call

Signs You Need Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades

If you notice any of these in your Lebanon home, it is worth booking a measure. None of it is urgent, and none of it fixes itself either.

Plants on the sill need light the shade blocks

Daylight is wanted without the view in

Dust has settled inside the honeycomb cells

A dual-rail shade hangs crooked at one end

A crease has set where the top rail always parks

A bath window looks straight at a neighbor's wall

Motorized rails have both gone dead within a year

A stair window puts the top rail out of reach

The clear band of glass came out smaller than expected

The front room faces a sidewalk at eye level

Our Process

How Lebanon Window Treatments Handles Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades

Every job follows the same five-step process. Transparent, thorough, and done right the first time.

1

Sightline checked from the sidewalk

2

Daily rail positions talked through

3

Both stacks calculated

4

Battery schedule doubled in writing

5

Dust routine left with the customer

Real Project Photos

Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades in Lebanon

Photographs from real top-down bottom-up shades jobs completed by our crew in Lebanon and surrounding areas.

Custom shades measured and installed in LebanonPlantation shutters fitted to a Lebanon windowCellular shades in a Lebanon living room
Scope of Work

What Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades Includes

Every Lebanon job is documented item by item. Here is what the crew covers.

The honest hardware count stated at the measure: two rails, two lift paths and more parts than a single-lift shade

Which rail you will actually use daily talked through, since most people live in one or two positions

The sightline from the sidewalk checked with you standing in the room, because that is what sets the useful top rail height

Both stacks accounted for, the one at the head and the one that gathers under a lowered top rail

Glass left visible in the middle calculated before the order, so the open band is what you expected

Mounting depth measured for a deeper headrail, since two lift systems take more room than one

Three widths and three heights at every opening, with the diagonal read for square

Corded and cordless compared honestly, including how each one behaves when a rail drifts out of level

Cordless specified in rooms children use, since a corded dual-rail shade puts more cord in the room, not less

ANSI/WCMA A100.1-2022 cord access applied per opening rather than as one blanket line

Fabric opacity settled in writing, and the rail gap disclosed for anyone expecting blackout

Product family chosen for the room, cellular, pleated, a fabric fold or a woven natural

Weight checked against the finished size, because two rails and two lift paths add up on a wide unit

Light gap per side written on the paperwork, with the top rail position noted where it changes what you see

Rail leveling shown to you at handover so a drifted rail is a thirty second fix rather than a service call

Every opening in a room ordered together so fabric and hardware come off the same run

The contract written out in full, since IC 24-5-11 applies to residential work over $150 in this state

Both rails cycled through full travel at every window before we leave, top and bottom, twice

Pricing

What Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades Cost in Lebanon

Published national ranges put custom-fabricated shades at roughly $250 to $2,600 a window, with motorized units at roughly $300 to $1,500 per window installed. Those are national category figures rather than a quote for anything in Lebanon. A top-down bottom-up shade prices above the same shade with a single lift, and the reason is straightforward: you are buying two lift systems, a second moving rail and the hardware that carries both. Expect the upgrade to be real rather than nominal. The fabric decision then applies as usual, since a blackout cellular costs more than a light filtering pleated. Adding a motor to a dual-rail shade costs more than motorizing a single-lift one, because there are two things to move. Lebanon Window Treatments prices from measured openings across Boone County.

By Product

How Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades Differ by Product

Every product in this trade behaves differently in a room. Here is what that means for this work.

Corded dual-rail lift: Two separate cord sets, one working the bottom rail and one working the top. It gives precise control of both rails and it puts the most cord and the most hardware into the window of any version we hang.

Cordless dual-rail lift: A spring system for the bottom rail and a second arrangement for the top, with nothing hanging beside the window. You move each rail by hand at the rail itself, which is what we specify wherever children are in the house.

Motorized dual-rail: A motor for each rail, so both positions are set from a remote or a keypad. It's the version that gets used daily on high or hard-to-reach windows, and it doubles the motor count, which shows up in both the price and the battery schedule.

Cellular top-down bottom-up: The most common build, because the cell structure stacks tightly at both ends and the fabric hides the second rail well. It's also the family with the DOE and ORNL energy testing behind the material itself.

Pleated top-down bottom-up: The lower cost version, with a single layer of pleated fabric rather than cells. It behaves the same way at both rails and gives up the trapped air pocket, which is worth saying plainly rather than leaving implied.

Fabric fold top-down bottom-up: A Roman-style shade with a movable top rail, so a formal room gets the same privacy trick without looking like a technical product. Folds stack deeper than cells, so the middle band of visible glass is narrower.

Woven natural top-down bottom-up: A bamboo or grass weave built with two rails. It looks striking and it stacks deepest of anything here, since natural material bundles rather than folds flat, so the finished size gets checked against the maker's limits first.

Room darkening fabric on a dual rail: A dense fabric on both rails, which gets a bedroom dim. The honest limit is where the two stacks meet under a lowered top rail, since that junction is hardware rather than a sealed edge and it passes a line of light.

Deeper headrail: The headrail on a dual-rail shade is larger than the one on a single-lift shade, because it houses two systems. That extra depth is the thing that most often turns a planned inside mount into an outside mount, so we measure for it early.

Outside mount with a real overlap: Mounted above and past the opening so the fabric laps the trim. On this product it does something specific: it lets the top rail drop below the head of the glass without exposing a lit gap at the sides of the opening.

Light Control

See What Each Fabric Does To The Light

Pick a fabric below and the window updates. It's a drawing rather than a photograph, so read it as a rough guide to what each family does in a Lebanon room, and to what it doesn't do.

Fabric type

Sheer, 10 percent openness

Ten percent of the weave is open, so you keep the view and most of the daylight. Glare drops a little. After dark, once your lamps are on, someone outside can read shapes through it, which is why this belongs on a view window rather than a bedroom.

Openness factor is printed on the fabric card, so you can compare one line against another before you order anything.

Keeps the viewNot private after dark

Solar, 5 percent openness

The usual pick for a west window or a covered porch. You can still read the yard through it, glare comes down noticeably, and the fabric intercepts a good share of the sun before it reaches you at four in the afternoon.

It also cuts the UV landing on floors and furniture. NFRC puts UV at roughly 40 to 60 percent of fading damage, so this slows fading rather than stopping it.

View and glare controlSlows fading

Solar, 3 percent openness

A tighter weave. The room goes dimmer and the view drops back to an outline. Choose it where the sun is the problem and the view is second, which around here usually means a west wall in July. That's a common call on this side of Indianapolis.

Openness affects how much you see out, not how private you are. A 3 percent fabric still shows silhouettes at night.

View becomes an outlineStrong glare control

Solar, 1 percent openness

Close to a solid fabric with a little view left in it. This is the strongest glare control in the solar family.

The trade is that it darkens the room on a gray January day too. Indianapolis averages a January high near 36F and the light is flat, so think about how the room reads in both seasons before you commit.

Darkest solar optionDim on gray days

Light filtering

No view through it. Daylight comes through the face diffused, so the room stays bright without a hot spot across the television or the kitchen island. This is the default for living spaces.

It isn't private in reverse at night. With the lamps on and the sun down, silhouettes still show.

No view through itBright without the glare

Room darkening

A denser fabric, usually with a liner behind it. Most of the light coming through the face is gone.

Light still arrives around the edges on an inside mount, so a room darkening shade gives you a dim room rather than a dark one. If someone in the house sleeps during the day, say so at the measure and we'll scope it differently.

Dim, not darkEdges stay bright

Blackout

The fabric itself passes essentially no light. What you'll still see is the perimeter. Lutron publishes an inside-mount light gap of about 3/4 inch per side on its Roller 20 and 64 shades, along with a standard factory deduction of 1/16 inch per side, and shades over 120 inches tall or past a 4:1 height-to-width ratio get larger gaps than that.

So if you need a genuinely dark bedroom, that gap has to be dealt with on purpose, either with side channels or by going outside mount. We tell you which one your opening can carry while we're still standing in the room.

Dark facePerimeter needs a plan

Openness factor is a measured fabric spec, so you can compare it line to line. The category names are not measured. One maker's room darkening can behave like another maker's light filtering, which is why the sample books come to the measure and get opened in the room they're going in, at the hour that room has the problem.

Common Questions

Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades FAQ

Questions we hear most often from Lebanon homeowners considering top-down bottom-up shades.

That's the best case for it in this city. A house from Lebanon's 1,275 pre-1940 units often runs its head well above 80 inches, so the top foot or more of glass looks at sky and rooflines rather than at anyone on the sidewalk. Dropping the top rail a foot brings daylight deep into the room while the lower glass stays covered all day. On a modern opening with an 80 inch head, the same move gives you far less, because there isn't much window above eye level to open in the first place.
A second lift system, essentially. There's a cord lock or a spring for the bottom rail, a separate one for the top rail, and the cording or tape that carries the middle rail up and down. The usual first failure is uneven travel on the top rail, where one side rises faster than the other and the rail hangs crooked. That's often a cord that has slipped in its lock rather than a broken part, and it's a service call rather than a new shade. A failed spring in a cordless version is a bigger job and sometimes ends the shade.
It asks more of the person using it, and that's a real consideration in some Lebanon settings. At the 2010 census the Town of Ulen returned 51.8 as its median age, and 26.5 percent of its residents were 65 or older, the oldest population documented anywhere near here. Two lift paths means two grips, two motions and more force on a large shade. Where dexterity or reach is the constraint, we'd rather fit a single cordless shade that works every time than a two path shade that ends up parked in one position for a year.
Yes, and it doubles what's in the headrail again. A motorized top down bottom up shade carries two motors, which means two batteries to charge, more depth in the head, and more weight hanging off the brackets. Hunter Douglas puts PowerView battery life at roughly a year, so a house with several of these has a recurring task rather than a one time purchase. On a reachable opening we'd usually put the motor on the bottom rail only and leave the top rail manual, which covers the daily use and halves the maintenance.
You get two stacks and they meet. Fabric gathers above the middle rail as it comes down and below the top rail as it goes up, so parking both near the center of the opening leaves a thick band across the middle of the glass with clear window above and below. It's a look, and some rooms carry it well. On the half height lower level openings in a Lebanon split level, where the whole opening is short to begin with, two stacks in the middle leave almost no glass, and a plain cordless shade is the better answer.
During the day, from a normal sidewalk distance, yes. Anyone standing at ground level on a street near the square is looking up at an angle that the open upper glass doesn't expose much of. After dark it reverses: a lit room with the top open is visible from further away than people expect, particularly from an upper floor across the street on those older blocks. If a room is used in the evening, we set the top rail lower than feels necessary in daylight and check it from outside before we leave.
One shade, two moving rails. The bottom rail lifts the way any shade does. The top rail comes down from the head of the window, so you can drop it a foot and let daylight in over the top while the lower glass stays covered. That's the whole idea: light from above, privacy below. In a front room on a sidewalk in Lebanon, or a bath on a side elevation looking at a neighbor, it solves a problem that no single-rail shade solves.
You're buying two lift systems instead of one, plus a second rail and the hardware that carries it. That's not a small upcharge and we'd rather you hear the reason than the number alone. Nationally, custom shades run about $250 to $2,600 per window, and a dual-rail build sits meaningfully above the same shade with a single lift. Motorizing one costs more than motorizing a standard shade too, since there are two things to drive.
More hardware, more to fail. A corded version runs two separate cord paths through the shade, which means twice as many cords to fray, twice as many places to bind, and a restring job that's genuinely more involved. Cordless versions have two spring or friction systems that can wear at different rates. Neither of those is a reason to avoid the product. They're a reason to buy a good one, specify cordless where you can, and know what you're living with.
Cordless in any room children or pets use, and it isn't close. A corded dual-rail shade puts more operating cord in the room than a standard shade does, which is the opposite direction from where ANSI/WCMA A100.1-2022 points on cord access, and inner-cord non-compliance is treated as a substantial product hazard under 16 CFR 1120.3. Corded gives finer control of the top rail from across the room. In a bedroom or a nursery that isn't the trade we'd make.
Usually not to the sill, and the reason is fabric. As the top rail drops, the fabric above it has to gather somewhere, so a stack builds under the rail and grows as it comes down. On most products the top rail travels most of the drop and stops with a stack still hanging below it. On a woven natural or a fabric fold, where the material bundles deeper, it stops sooner. We show you the real travel rather than the marketing photo.
Both ends, and it's worth knowing before you order. With the shade fully raised you have the head stack. With the top rail dropped, you have that stack hanging under the rail plus the bottom stack sitting above the sill. The band of clear glass in the middle is what you're actually buying, and on a short window it can be narrower than people picture. Cellular stacks tightest. A woven natural stacks deepest. We calculate it at the measure.
It can be dim in a room darkening or blackout fabric, and it can't be sealed. There's a rail where the top section meets the fabric, and that junction is hardware, so it passes a line of light no matter what the fabric does. Add the side gaps of an inside mount, where Lutron publishes 3/4 inch per side as a real figure on their roller product, and you can see why a dark bedroom wants a different build. If a room must be dark, we layer or we mount outside with real overlap.
Usually not. On a corded shade, one side of a cord path can take up more travel than the other, and the rail ends up sitting a little low at one end. The fix is to pull the low corner down gently and let it re-seat, then run the rail full travel. We show every customer that at handover because it takes half a minute and it saves a service call. If it drifts again within a day or two, something is binding, and that we come and look at.
Rooms where you want daylight and you don't want the street. Front-facing living rooms on a sidewalk. Bathrooms on a side elevation looking straight at a neighbor. Kitchen windows over a sink where the yard is fine to see but the driveway isn't. Home offices where you want light on the ceiling and not on a screen. It's a specific answer to a specific problem, and in a back bedroom facing a wooded lot it's money you don't need to spend.
Cellular and pleated are the most common, since both stack tightly and handle a second rail cleanly. Fabric fold shades can be built this way and look lovely doing it, with a deeper stack as the tradeoff. Woven naturals can too, and they stack deepest of all. Rollers cannot, because a roller has nowhere for a second stack to go. If you've seen a roller doing something similar, it was two shades on a dual bracket, which is a different product.
More than a single-lift shade wants, yes, because the headrail houses two systems. This is the detail that most often turns a planned inside mount into an outside mount, and we measure it at the top of the opening before anything gets ordered. Where the depth isn't there, mounting outside the opening with a proper overlap is a better result than a headrail standing proud of the trim, and it usually improves privacy at the edges too.
Sometimes in the field, often at the factory, and always more involved than a single-lift shade. There are two cord paths running through the shade, so a restring means working out which path failed and threading it back through the fabric correctly. On a cordless unit, a failed lift is usually a headrail component rather than a cord, and that's typically a factory part. We'll tell you honestly which side of that line your shade falls on before you decide to repair or replace.
Yes, with two motors, one per rail, and the cost reflects that. It's the version that makes sense on tall or hard to reach windows in Boone County, where reaching a top rail by hand means standing on something. Installed motorization sits nationally at $300 to $1,500 per window and you're driving two rails. Batteries are the recurring cost, and Hunter Douglas states PowerView battery life is about one year, which on a dual-rail shade means two battery changes rather than one.
Two to five weeks is the usual custom fabrication window and dual-rail units generally sit toward the longer end, since the second lift system gets built and tested at the factory. Motorized versions add a step. That fabrication window goes into your paperwork with the scope, the dates and the total price, which the Indiana Home Improvement Contract Act requires on residential work over $150.
Areas We Serve

Top-Down Bottom-Up Shades Across Lebanon

We measure and install in every one of these Lebanon neighborhoods. Each has its own page with the build eras, window conditions and mounting notes for that section.

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Contact Information

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Our team prioritizes scheduled measures and service calls, and books in-home measures during business hours.

Office
1417 Commerce Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46201
Hours
Mon-Fri 8a-6p
Service Area
Lebanon, IN and Surrounding Areas

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Call us to set up an in-home measure, or to ask about a treatment that has stopped working. We will talk it through on the phone first.

Call (317) 863-9966
Service area

Serving Lebanon and the surrounding area

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